One of the reasons people go to the Galapagos Islands is the animals never experienced humans as predators. This means you can get up close and personal with them without them being afraid of you.
Never in a million years did I think I would get to the Galapagos Islands. Hell I hardly even knew exactly where it was back then.
Until one day in late 2010 I just said ‘I’m going’…
The Galapagos Islands were accidentally discovered in 1535 by the Bishop Tomas de Berlanga, on his way from Panama to Peru.
He wrote that the Galapagos was an “abrupt landscape that’s desolate and mysterious, with no signs of human presence”
He left the islands untouched, but pirates used it as a base to attack Spanish ports and trade routes in the 1600s.
They pillaged the natural resources, stocking up on fresh meat, and in doing so decimating the Galapagos tortoise and whale population.
The tortoises were prized because they could be kept alive on board ships for months without food or water. Whalers and hunters also exploited the bounties of the Galapagos and came to hunt whales and fur seals in the plentiful waters.They also introduced goats, which still remain the biggest threat to Galapagos ecosystem.
It was in 1835 that the Galapagos’s most famous human visitor arrived, on board the British ship, the H.M.S Beagle.
He proceeded to catalogue Galapagos’s flora and fauna from what he learnt in the Galapagos. Eventually he wrote his theory of evolution and origin of species. We know that was Darwin of course.
The Ecuadorian government established prison colonies in the Galapagos until the middle of the twentieth century. In World War Two there was even a secret US military base on the islands, used to defend the Panama canal.
Today there’s no lack of human presence as we all try to explore this unique place. The tourists, the world travellers, the explorers hoping to get up close and personal with the islands themselves, their surrounding seas, and the creatures that inhabit this remote and isolated realm. It’s a process to be carefully managed.
Jorge is our naturalist guide in the Galapagos. Jorge introduced himself as “George” – he fancies himself as Lonesome George I think. We later discover that in fact, he is known here as “Lonesome George” a title afforded him for his involvement in the project of the last remaining Pinta Island Tortoise.
Jorge is funny and very knowledgeable about everything Galapagos and often calls himself ‘endemic’. He is also a non-negotiable part of the trip as a certified guide required by law. We also discover Jorge was born on San Cristobal Island and his father was the first National Park Ranger.
He was a great guide and how lucky are we to have a true local to guide us.
Although only a small population of people live on just four of the islands – some 20,000 people, there is a strong contingent of naturalists and guides who live and breathe this beautiful part of the world.
We learn the Galapagos rules: no eating on islands, yes really no food in the islands, no stepping off the trails, no shoes on board, and always use the ‘Galapagos Grip’ when boarding the pangas. The Galapagos Grip is best described as Double Grips. It’s where you grab each other by the wrist and then are passed on to the next out stretched hand where this maneuver is duplicated with the other hand resulting in a secure and confident embark/disembark maneuvering each time.
And then there are the rules prescribed by Ecuadorian law which are pretty much common sense;
Everything on our cruise is highly organised, right down to our 6.30am music wake up call which resonates through our cabin for our next exciting day in the Enchanted Isles.
We are constantly reminded of the need to preserve this beautiful place and our cruise company, Haugen Cruises recycles all rubbish, purifies and discharges waste water into the deep ocean.
We don’t see too many other boats, as they are spread evenly among the nineteen islands, and tourist numbers are controlled to prevent over crowding of the Galapagos. The Government and National Park dictate and control where the cruise boats are allowed to go.
This is how the world can now access the beauty of the Galapagos, together in small bands of global wanderers, coming together for a week or so to see how the world looks like when left relatively untouched and unspoilt by our human hands.
We drink it all in, every interaction with the creatures of the Galapagos, and every stunning, unique landscape.
There are fifteen of us on the catamaran, a great group, and everyone gets on well together. We share a once in a lifetime experience with our fellow guest species comprised of a mix of nationalities and cultures: four Brits, two Americans, three Israelis, two Dutch, two Australians and the two of us Kiwis.
Our trip to the Galapagos Islands leaves its mark on all of us…
Chief Seattle